So another Blog FHOTD, did a posting about a trainer whose student showed in the green horse class with an obviously NOT green horse and of course... Won the class, pissing off a lot of people!! Which brings me to another little point... And that is people, not just trainers, but a lot of people in general who show at local shooling shows, little piddly ones, where pasture pony's can be brought in to have fun and completely clean up and feel good about themselves...
You know EXACTLY who I'm talking about too, not the people who are getting their green horse albeit a very nicely trained, one used to showing, or the people who just like to be decked out and look nice and have a nice horse, but the people who have OBVIOUSLY perfectly trained, been to world's, so on and so forth, god's gifts to the horse word horses. They come and clean up and act oh so proud of themselves. I've seen countless BNT's do this ALL the time!! And yes, they do show in the green horse classes and yes they do cheat the system like a son of a bitch... And yes it does look really really tacky.
Bringing an experienced show horse to a schooling is fine, please don't get me wrong, if the horse is A. Getting ready for the show circuit or B. is owned by someone who is just getting into horses.
But, having a huge sense of accomplishment when your "A" system or circuit horse beats little kids on their old bomb proof horses. No I don't think so....
I used to compete against this one girl who had an very nice paint and she would clean up all of the schooling shows, but never show beyond that, because she knew then there would be REAL competition... She knew she could kick the crap out of us who were on green, nervous, just learning horses and was afraid to go beyond that because she would lose. It never did and never has stopped any of us who were there for experience from having a good time and being proud of our young ins, but it does get REALLY frustrating and all fr the sake of a ribbon...
Being proud of yourself for placing high in a class is great, but not when you know you are a million strides above everyone else, that's just a MAJOR Fatty Fail... Any showing pet peeves from you guys??? Let's hear them!!!!
Monday, March 15, 2010
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Scram with your Scams
So a poster (Barb) pointed out I should do a little piece on scammers and boarding. Phew there is a LAUNDRY list of scams out there people try to pull. OK, let's start here...
Boarding. Craigslist is FULL of scammers, be wary of ANYONE who sends you a request to board from out of state and weird things, like, "I'll put the money in your account and if you could transfer it to so and so's account to pay for shipping, bla bla bla...so on so forth." NO Do not do this EVER!!! Meet the people or have them send a responsible Representative! Also if possible get cash only. Make boarders sign CONTRACTS that state that you as the barn owner/manager have the right to sell the animal if the owner defaults on board for X amount of time. With the economy the way it is, I wouldn't be surprised if people would pay a months board and then never come back for their horse. Get reference too and call THEM, so if the owner does ditch out you have someone to call. If the horse is registered, get a copy of the papers, that way again if the owner bails you can contact prev. owners/breeder and see if they want the horse back...
Now as far as you looking for a boarding facility, ALWAYS check it out in person at least a couple times! Make an appt the first time you come, but the second time you visit, just show up, that way you can really see the facility for what it is. Never compromise your horses safety and health for cheap board... Never except excuses on why there is no hay on the property or why water buckets are empty, or FILTHY!!!! You can even ask to speak with current boarders and maybe previous boarders about the place to see what they think. Local feed stores and tack shops may also have insight on specific barns and their reputations. Also if you contact a boarding facility and they want you to send money via the Internet, do not do it. Go to the farm and put the deposit down and what not.
Just remember, if it seems to good to be true, or you just get an ill feeling, GO WITH IT!!!!! CL is CRAWLING with people who think their oh so uber smart and will try to scam the pants off of you. There are plenty of people who own horses, LOCALLY, that need boarding that the last thing you need to do is deal with a scammer who is out of state or even worse out of the country.
Boarding. Craigslist is FULL of scammers, be wary of ANYONE who sends you a request to board from out of state and weird things, like, "I'll put the money in your account and if you could transfer it to so and so's account to pay for shipping, bla bla bla...so on so forth." NO Do not do this EVER!!! Meet the people or have them send a responsible Representative! Also if possible get cash only. Make boarders sign CONTRACTS that state that you as the barn owner/manager have the right to sell the animal if the owner defaults on board for X amount of time. With the economy the way it is, I wouldn't be surprised if people would pay a months board and then never come back for their horse. Get reference too and call THEM, so if the owner does ditch out you have someone to call. If the horse is registered, get a copy of the papers, that way again if the owner bails you can contact prev. owners/breeder and see if they want the horse back...
Now as far as you looking for a boarding facility, ALWAYS check it out in person at least a couple times! Make an appt the first time you come, but the second time you visit, just show up, that way you can really see the facility for what it is. Never compromise your horses safety and health for cheap board... Never except excuses on why there is no hay on the property or why water buckets are empty, or FILTHY!!!! You can even ask to speak with current boarders and maybe previous boarders about the place to see what they think. Local feed stores and tack shops may also have insight on specific barns and their reputations. Also if you contact a boarding facility and they want you to send money via the Internet, do not do it. Go to the farm and put the deposit down and what not.
Just remember, if it seems to good to be true, or you just get an ill feeling, GO WITH IT!!!!! CL is CRAWLING with people who think their oh so uber smart and will try to scam the pants off of you. There are plenty of people who own horses, LOCALLY, that need boarding that the last thing you need to do is deal with a scammer who is out of state or even worse out of the country.
Monday, February 15, 2010
For Paigeley
Here was a question she left me on the last post...
trainer x i have a question about lunging
we have a roundpen at my barn so i usually lunge in there without a lunge line. my horse continually cuts the circle and stops. when she stops if i get close she tries to kick my head. I've had a couple of close calls with that one. when she does stop i go to her side then use the lunge whip to get her moving again. When she cuts the circle nothing I've tried can get her back on the circle until she gets to the other side of the roundpen, she always cuts at the same spot in the roundpen. I've tried running towards her, whipping her over, getting really close to her on that side, none of it has worked. help please???
OK, some of you may not like the answer I'm about to give. If you don't that's fine get your damn head kicked off. Anywho moving on.
So, Paigeley, this is what you need. A halter preferably a rope halter but anything can work, a lead rope, a crop (short whip) and your lunge whip. She needs and MUST learn to respect your space.
So lesson 1. Get her the HELL out of your space!!!! Inside the round pen with her in her halter and lead rope and you holding your crop take a step towards her. If she does not move out of your space poke her with the butt end of your crop. Still no move??? Poke harder. Still no move??? Give her a nice smack. When she moves, praise and do it again. Do this from all areas. Step into her by her shoulders, from her front facing head on and the hind quarters. She MUST yield to you when you move at her.
Lesson 2. This is the one that can be tougher. Still in her halter and lead rope begin to lunge her, while your holding the lead rope and your lunge whip. When and if she stops attempt to use the lunge whip to encourage her to move on. If she won't and she begins to charge or kick at you, You have every right to kick her ASS. OK, here is an example. Your lunging to the right and she stops and turns into you, you are holding the lead rope with your right hand and the lunge whip in your left. Start hitting the ground on the left side (your left cause she's facing you, her right) if she doesn't move hit the ground harder, if that doesn't get her moving then start hitting her in the rump and side to get her to move away from it and moving on in her circle again. IF and this is a huge if, she dares to charge or kick out at you, smack her in the sides and rump with your lunge whip until she moves on again in her circle. If she charges you swing that whip in front of you at her chest as hard as you can. If it hits her OH WELL. Charging, rearing, kicking, biting, etc. Is grounds for you to kick some serious ass!!!! Once she backs off of you, begin again calmly. Get her moving into the lunging circle, if she stops, encourage her to move with the whip and repeat the process. The reason, by the way, that you are keeping her in a halter, is because it is easier for you to control her head and hopefully teach her to round pen properly.
OK, now because there is not really only one way to things let's say this doesn't work. So she's lunging and she stops and turns into you, yank on your halter and back her up fast and hard and at least a quarter to half the round pen in length. If she doesn't want to move forward then we'll make her move backwards, either way she's going to learn to that she is going to move come hell or highwater. After you've backed her up ask her to move on again if she stops, repeat. The idea is to make the wrong thing 100 times more difficult than the right thing. Horses hate backing up, going forward is much easier, but sometimes your horse needs to make that connection in it's own head.
OK, always start at the walk and when she lunges correctly at the walk then ask for the trot and etc. both ways. Once she is doing well on the lead rope, use a lunge line and then nothing, just the normal round pen. IF she goes back to her old ways, use the lead rope again. She HAS to know you mean business and kicking is a huge NO NO!! I hope some of this helps. Let me know how it goes and if you need anything else. If this doesn't work, I've got more tricks up my sleeve. LOL
trainer x i have a question about lunging
we have a roundpen at my barn so i usually lunge in there without a lunge line. my horse continually cuts the circle and stops. when she stops if i get close she tries to kick my head. I've had a couple of close calls with that one. when she does stop i go to her side then use the lunge whip to get her moving again. When she cuts the circle nothing I've tried can get her back on the circle until she gets to the other side of the roundpen, she always cuts at the same spot in the roundpen. I've tried running towards her, whipping her over, getting really close to her on that side, none of it has worked. help please???
OK, some of you may not like the answer I'm about to give. If you don't that's fine get your damn head kicked off. Anywho moving on.
So, Paigeley, this is what you need. A halter preferably a rope halter but anything can work, a lead rope, a crop (short whip) and your lunge whip. She needs and MUST learn to respect your space.
So lesson 1. Get her the HELL out of your space!!!! Inside the round pen with her in her halter and lead rope and you holding your crop take a step towards her. If she does not move out of your space poke her with the butt end of your crop. Still no move??? Poke harder. Still no move??? Give her a nice smack. When she moves, praise and do it again. Do this from all areas. Step into her by her shoulders, from her front facing head on and the hind quarters. She MUST yield to you when you move at her.
Lesson 2. This is the one that can be tougher. Still in her halter and lead rope begin to lunge her, while your holding the lead rope and your lunge whip. When and if she stops attempt to use the lunge whip to encourage her to move on. If she won't and she begins to charge or kick at you, You have every right to kick her ASS. OK, here is an example. Your lunging to the right and she stops and turns into you, you are holding the lead rope with your right hand and the lunge whip in your left. Start hitting the ground on the left side (your left cause she's facing you, her right) if she doesn't move hit the ground harder, if that doesn't get her moving then start hitting her in the rump and side to get her to move away from it and moving on in her circle again. IF and this is a huge if, she dares to charge or kick out at you, smack her in the sides and rump with your lunge whip until she moves on again in her circle. If she charges you swing that whip in front of you at her chest as hard as you can. If it hits her OH WELL. Charging, rearing, kicking, biting, etc. Is grounds for you to kick some serious ass!!!! Once she backs off of you, begin again calmly. Get her moving into the lunging circle, if she stops, encourage her to move with the whip and repeat the process. The reason, by the way, that you are keeping her in a halter, is because it is easier for you to control her head and hopefully teach her to round pen properly.
OK, now because there is not really only one way to things let's say this doesn't work. So she's lunging and she stops and turns into you, yank on your halter and back her up fast and hard and at least a quarter to half the round pen in length. If she doesn't want to move forward then we'll make her move backwards, either way she's going to learn to that she is going to move come hell or highwater. After you've backed her up ask her to move on again if she stops, repeat. The idea is to make the wrong thing 100 times more difficult than the right thing. Horses hate backing up, going forward is much easier, but sometimes your horse needs to make that connection in it's own head.
OK, always start at the walk and when she lunges correctly at the walk then ask for the trot and etc. both ways. Once she is doing well on the lead rope, use a lunge line and then nothing, just the normal round pen. IF she goes back to her old ways, use the lead rope again. She HAS to know you mean business and kicking is a huge NO NO!! I hope some of this helps. Let me know how it goes and if you need anything else. If this doesn't work, I've got more tricks up my sleeve. LOL
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Chase Me
So I started giving lessons to this young girl and typically what I like to do first is watch my student work their horse as they do every day. So I can see where they're at and where their horse is at. A mini evaluation so to speak.
So she begins to lunge her horse and I notice that she is chasing him around the lunge line, to the point where she is RUNNING literally all over the arena. I ask her what she's doing and she says that she went to a Big name Trainer Clinic and he said that when lunging you need to move as fast as your horse. Ummmmm no.
That's a big, huge, fatty no no. You should NOT have to work harder than your horse when lunging it. The horse should be respectful and NOT tug on your hands when lunging and should be just fine lunging in a set circle. Lunging is one of those things that should still be work for the horse, but not as much for you. Lunging is not to let your horse run bat shit crazy in circles. It should be controlled and productive. If your horse gives out a buck or two, no biggie, but then bring them back down to earth and back to work. Running after your horse is not doing a darn thing, except wearing you out and your horse isn't learning anything either, ESPECIALLY to respect you.
She was surprised when I took out one of the younger training horses I'm working with and had him lunging on a nice quiet circle, listening to all my commands appropriately. She couldn't believe you could lunge a horse that way. *Headdesk* which brings me to another little side point.
Use common sense. Would you chase your darn horse around while lunging, completely exhausting yourself and leaving your horse, ignoring you and probably laughing at you? No. So use your gut instincts or feel free to explore other successful trainer's techniques. Or if you like running around a deep sandy arena, well then have fun....
So she begins to lunge her horse and I notice that she is chasing him around the lunge line, to the point where she is RUNNING literally all over the arena. I ask her what she's doing and she says that she went to a Big name Trainer Clinic and he said that when lunging you need to move as fast as your horse. Ummmmm no.
That's a big, huge, fatty no no. You should NOT have to work harder than your horse when lunging it. The horse should be respectful and NOT tug on your hands when lunging and should be just fine lunging in a set circle. Lunging is one of those things that should still be work for the horse, but not as much for you. Lunging is not to let your horse run bat shit crazy in circles. It should be controlled and productive. If your horse gives out a buck or two, no biggie, but then bring them back down to earth and back to work. Running after your horse is not doing a darn thing, except wearing you out and your horse isn't learning anything either, ESPECIALLY to respect you.
She was surprised when I took out one of the younger training horses I'm working with and had him lunging on a nice quiet circle, listening to all my commands appropriately. She couldn't believe you could lunge a horse that way. *Headdesk* which brings me to another little side point.
Use common sense. Would you chase your darn horse around while lunging, completely exhausting yourself and leaving your horse, ignoring you and probably laughing at you? No. So use your gut instincts or feel free to explore other successful trainer's techniques. Or if you like running around a deep sandy arena, well then have fun....
Sunday, January 24, 2010
So What Can I Have??
Here is a posting I saw on CL. It's supposed to be a "fancy" stable in West Seattle... All I can say is WTF, but here it goes anyway.
"Rare opening in lovely West Seattle stable. 10X12 stall with 10X20 foot "patio" behind. Daily turnout in mud free paddocks with grass paddocks in season. 70X160 covered arena with 70 wall of mirrors and lighting. Board fences. Two wash areas, both with hot and cold water. Dressage instruction and clinics available. Three feedings daily. Vitamins and wormers supplied. Small friendly stable with maximum of 10 horses. Pretty gardens with vegetables and flowers. We limit horse size to 16 hands and do not take thoroughbreds. Reply to ad for further details."
Soooooooo it's a dressage barn, but the maximum horse size is 16hh?? What kind of dressage horse do you suppose you'll find under that??? And no TB's? REALLY?!?!?! Again another popular dressage standard. So I guess you can have a pony, or a Quarter horse (not that that is a problem, but come on!) as your next dressage prospect, but apparently that's it. No Warmbloods or Tb crosses, nothing with long floaty legs, heaven forbid it be too tall???? And can you define exactly what a "Patio" means for my horse? Oh perhaps the patio is just a little bit of turnout, buuuuut then why couldn't they just say that instead... Hmmm I'm at a loss. Oh well at least they have "Pretty gardens with vegetables and flowers." But that's about it. *headdesk*
"Rare opening in lovely West Seattle stable. 10X12 stall with 10X20 foot "patio" behind. Daily turnout in mud free paddocks with grass paddocks in season. 70X160 covered arena with 70 wall of mirrors and lighting. Board fences. Two wash areas, both with hot and cold water. Dressage instruction and clinics available. Three feedings daily. Vitamins and wormers supplied. Small friendly stable with maximum of 10 horses. Pretty gardens with vegetables and flowers. We limit horse size to 16 hands and do not take thoroughbreds. Reply to ad for further details."
Soooooooo it's a dressage barn, but the maximum horse size is 16hh?? What kind of dressage horse do you suppose you'll find under that??? And no TB's? REALLY?!?!?! Again another popular dressage standard. So I guess you can have a pony, or a Quarter horse (not that that is a problem, but come on!) as your next dressage prospect, but apparently that's it. No Warmbloods or Tb crosses, nothing with long floaty legs, heaven forbid it be too tall???? And can you define exactly what a "Patio" means for my horse? Oh perhaps the patio is just a little bit of turnout, buuuuut then why couldn't they just say that instead... Hmmm I'm at a loss. Oh well at least they have "Pretty gardens with vegetables and flowers." But that's about it. *headdesk*
Monday, January 18, 2010
Let My Face Go
At an evaluation tonight of a new student and her semi green horse I watched them ride around and around and I saw the same thing time and time again. Her horse would drop his head and she would yank his head up. I finally had to stop her and ask her why she was doing this? She answered that her horse would occasionally buck going into the canter. Well, OK, that seemed like a decent answer except that she was just trotting. So as she kept going I started to tell her to release her horse's head when he dropped it. She was hesitant at first, but I assured her he was just trying to stretch down.
After a few times I noticed her horse started to relax and really stretch neck down. Every time she tried to jerk his head back up I told her she was sending him backwards in his training. Now granted she is a little gun shy due to the fact her horse has bucked with her, but he was legitimately just truly just trying to stretch his neck and back, which would eventually help us encourage his head set.
So how can a rider, any rider, tell the difference in if their horse is just stretching or prepping for a buck?? A buck will begin with pinned ears, and a humpy, tense back. You may feel him tense in the bridle a little bit as well. He may kick out as a warning and start tossing his head. A buck is also more common during transitions, especially into the canter or lope.
When a horse is stretching, this will typically occur at the walk or a long trot, he will just gradually drop his nose down and may even bring his head up or down a couple times. Always allow your horse the option to stretch if you can. You'll feel that his back and neck will be quite relaxed and he should have a soft and supple jaw and mouth. He may even stretch or extend his gaits a little too. Once he is done stretching or you need him to bring his head back up, make it a soft gradual lift with your hands and reins so he doesn't feel you are jerking his head back up. That will only cause a hard mouthed horse and horse who doesn't or won't drop his head anymore...
After a few times I noticed her horse started to relax and really stretch neck down. Every time she tried to jerk his head back up I told her she was sending him backwards in his training. Now granted she is a little gun shy due to the fact her horse has bucked with her, but he was legitimately just truly just trying to stretch his neck and back, which would eventually help us encourage his head set.
So how can a rider, any rider, tell the difference in if their horse is just stretching or prepping for a buck?? A buck will begin with pinned ears, and a humpy, tense back. You may feel him tense in the bridle a little bit as well. He may kick out as a warning and start tossing his head. A buck is also more common during transitions, especially into the canter or lope.
When a horse is stretching, this will typically occur at the walk or a long trot, he will just gradually drop his nose down and may even bring his head up or down a couple times. Always allow your horse the option to stretch if you can. You'll feel that his back and neck will be quite relaxed and he should have a soft and supple jaw and mouth. He may even stretch or extend his gaits a little too. Once he is done stretching or you need him to bring his head back up, make it a soft gradual lift with your hands and reins so he doesn't feel you are jerking his head back up. That will only cause a hard mouthed horse and horse who doesn't or won't drop his head anymore...
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Welcome Welcome!!
Welcome to 2010! Whew I have been one busy person so far. I just moved to a new house and finally had Comcast come out and give me my Internet!! WOOHOO!!! So we are up and running for some new blogs now!!! How was all your holidays and your New Years starting out???
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